Day 40, basically Poplarville, MS to new Orleans LA

It was one of those unexpected good days but it was great overall. Initially I was thinking that I was just going to try and get to Frankville, no New Orleans and no Halloween. I was sad about it but accepted it. Then it happened...

Called up Kevin (beloved cousin) and he made it happen. New Orleans. Halloween. Kaboom.

The wind was in my face before Kevin and then I started traveling south having it at my back. It was glorious, I was built for speed. The sixty miles to travel just clicked off, so easy. Downhill with wind? Do I even need to pedal? Too easy.

So I posted up at a bar in Slidell waiting for a ride from Kevin the rest of the way. Nice little taco and beer place appropriately called tacos and beer. Overall delicious, great brew.

Got picked up and drove into town and what a place! Went to different bars and had a blast of a time. What. A. Time. Love new Orleans, I might never leave. Jazz clubs everywhere

Trip stats
Hours riding: ?
Day miles: 59? That can't be right.... Probably is
Total miles west: 796.17
Average speed: ? Fast though
Max speed: ?

Day 38, Dauphin island AL to Vancleave MS

Oh Alabama, I hardly knew thee. Already out of Alabama, only in it for a day I guess. The good news is that I took my time getting out if it. Slow rolled my way into Mississippi, are a cinnamon bun in the morning, delicious.

The thing I'll probably always remember about Alabama, is the barbeque. OH MY THE BARBEQUE! Actually maybe I can just sum it up and remember baton rouge more than specifically barbeque. In about an hour inn baton rouge I got everything that I wanted out of that town. I'll start with the barbeque and say it was huge and the best of the trip so far. Went to captain Frank's smoke pit and got the sampler platter, enormous:
-Three giant ribs that were the best ribs I've ever had, absolutely perfect. They kept on the bone but when you took a bit they gave up easily. Great flavor and rub too, these ribs will haunt me.
-A half a chicken that was so moist and tender you could start a religion about it. I don't know how they didn't let it dy out but my mouth was too full of it to ask.
-a bunch of delicious pulled pork that was tender, juicy and just plain delicious. My oh myyyyyy!
-a big slab of brisket that was good but definitely fourth place on my platter. A little tough but definitely tasty. I would put some chicken in it for a meat sandwich.
-fixings of beans, slaw and tater salad, all delicious.

Basically I ate it all and it was definitely enough for two people, but I couldn't stop. I'll never forget this barbeque place in Bayou LA Batre, it fed me right and made moving difficult for hours to come.

Another reason while I'll never forget it is because while I was in there everyone kept talking about shrimp! A guy walked in and said they had unloaded 40,000 pins of shrimp already! Crazy! Then the cashier lady who calls everyone babe (here you go babe, sure thing babe, how's it taste babe) started talking about all the ways she likes her shrimp: fried, baked, grilled, gumbo.... I've never seen anything like it!

Then on my way out I saw a drawbridge that takes the road up like an elevator. It was pretty cool but maybe I was in a meat coma and just thought it was neater than it actually was.

When I got into Vancleave I found a bar to ask if they were playing the baseball game. As I pulled in though I noticed they had a huge backyard so I also asked if I could call in their yard. Score two for the good guys because I ended up with free bar adjacent camping and watched the game. Great game, heart thumping, heavy intensity. She even made food for the bar so I got a free meal out of it also. Mississippi you're trying to make me forget about Alabama but I can't, I just can't.

Back on the road now, short day to just get to some other place where I'm staying. Last three nights of sleeping: behind a bar, under a house, in a church. Weird.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:13.51
Day miles: 72.26
Total miles: 673.99
Average speed: 13.8 mph
Max speed: 32.7 mph

Picture of barbeque
Picture of barbeque shop
Picture of bed under home
Picture of bike crossing state lines

Day 39, Vancleave MS to 773 magnolia road outside Poplarville MS

I was thinking about today and I don't think much happened for the bulk of it so I'm just going to blast through the morning section.
- had breakfast at BJ's cafe and it was amazing. Vancleave was such an affordable town. Accommodation, dinner, five beers, big breakfast and coffee cost a total of 17 dollars tip included.
- radio stations today weren't all bad, even grabbed some NPR and they said that they liked the new Taylor Swift album. Thanks NPR.
- dogs chased me again. I'm so tired of angry dogs. So tired. I'm going 20 mph and they still rip after me. You're too slow man!
- beautiful riding today, low traffic and peaceful trees.

I'm staying tonight at Paul and Judy's place outside of Poplarville. They are both extremely nice and Paul is loaded with stories to tell.... Probably too many stories. I'm a little concerned that Paul is a bit racist and extremely conservative, but I'm white and don't talk about politics so I think it's going to be fine. In the end they cooked me a fantastic dinner and are planning a great sounding breakfast tomorrow so I'm in for that. The only place cheaper than Vancleave might be here. They are getting into bee keeping and are calling the honey magnolia honey, I'm okay with that. I don't think they know anything about coffee because Paul was really complaining about Ecuadorian coffee. The man says folgers is the best coffee he's ever had.... It's like talking coffee with someone that claims Tim Horton's is the greatest. Different tastes I guess. Anyway, nice enough folk that have been extremely hospitable to me which I enjoy.

Get into it!

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:52.15
Day miles: 62.22
Total miles west: 736.22
Average speed: 12.7 mph
Max speed: 28.4 mph

Day 37, Pensacola FL to Dauphin Island AL

The day started off right with a solid breakfast from the church man. We talked cycling and bike trips and he was just an all around good dude. Very nice guy and he even gave me a bunch of energy gels and bars on my way out (he has millions). This could have been the most comfortable stop to date. I've been thinking about those milkshakes all day.

I'm also finally out of Florida and into Alabama. You were good to me Florida, I'll never forget you. I crossed a ferry through the gulf and it was weird seeing all the oil platforms. Bunches of them, full of oily oil. Mmmm, I wish they were pumping olive oil instead, yum. Update: turns out it is natural gas and not oil... Wish it was olive gas.

Staying under a random guys house tonight which is nice. There is internet, a hammock and I'm under a house so if anyone wants to get in the house I can charge them a toll like a troll. Profitable stay if the foot traffic picks up.

Watched some of the baseball game at the pelican pub tonight but it got out of hand fast so I left for sleep. Rowdy little town bar though, not a bad place but I'm always thrown when they allow smoking inside.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:42.55
Day miles: 65.93
Total miles west: 601.72
Average speed: 13.9 mph
Max speed: 30.7 mph

Day 36, Defuniak Springs FL to Pensacola FL

Not a bad day I say, not a bad day at all. It started off with a big risk by going off route and following Google instead of my maps. Some people I'd run into on the road said there was construction going into Pensacola and that the route was dangerous. I never actually found out what roads I should about entirely but I risked all and came in from the south. It turned out really great! Peaceful roads to start things off and then when I was confronted with traffic there was a wide shoulder. Just some beautiful riding along the beach also, full of serenity.

Things of now that happened today:
- had a pulled pork sandwich that was delicious. Moist and delicious I ate it up and didn't look back. Beans and slaw did the ticket also, delicious.
- collected some sand from the beach for my father. It was nice sand so I grabbed some and intended to give it to him probably by mail. It was weird when someone yelled at me saying I was stealing their sand but I just threw some sand in their eye and they left me alone.
- worked up a huge sweat today, really sweaty. Not sure in particular why today was so sweaty but it was and I had to live with it. I mostly lived with it by not doing anything but in fine with that.
- went to a "make your own burger" place that also does gourmet alcoholic milkshakes. If ordering two milkshakes two beers and a big burger is wrong then you need to reevaluate your priorities.... Also never talk to me again. Friendship over if that's how you feel.
- I'm staying at a church tonight for free and the church guy is really nice. He just did the trans America trail and it looked really cool. We talked Yellowstone for a bit which was cool. Also he is buying me breakfast tomorrow so that is just really nice, great time so far.
- Pensacola looks like an incredible cool town, very fun. I'm almost thinking I should stay another night because it looks so neat. I walked by an outdoor piano and give different pelican sculptures (Pappy). There are pelicans here like we had those bears and whales.
- I can make it to new Orleans for Halloween on Friday but since I didn't reserve anything I would have nowhere to stay. I'm not sure what to do anymore really because I want to push forward but definitely need to see new Orleans. I'll have to come up with something, some sort of a plan.
- did I mention the milkshakes? The only problem is that it is really only feasibly to order two at most.... I really wanted a third.
- the style pelican is named "stylican". Nice going art, you nailed it.
- MILKSHAKES!

Tomorrow I'm going to Dauphin island unless I stay here a day. I'll probably leave because I think the island had a campsite basically on the beach. Sweet sweet beach.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 6:21.11
Day miles: 92.01
Total miles west: 535.78
Average speed: 14.4
Max speed: 35.3
Sweat: loads

Day 35, Chipley FL to Defuniak Springs FL

October 26, 2014

Not much to report about riding today because I basically just got down to business. Business riding, business like. Short day also so just kind of did it. Fun fact about Defuniak, it is home to the second roundest lake in the world apparently. It is definitely a round lake, spring fed of course. Very nice little town, there is an old library and everything.

I did run into some people going the other direction while riding, a couple on a tandem bike and another guy who was on his first tour. He was just using Google so I told him about the maps I have, should help him out in the future. I saw what looked like another touring bike outside of the library in town but didn't track them down. Proof I'm not crazy.

BBQ: Had the barbeque sampler from 4-C barbeque in Defuniak. It was pretty really good but the ribs fell off the bone too easily, knife and fork ribs. Pork and brisket were also really nice, good eatin' I tell yah boy. When I took a photo of my meal the manager walked by and yelled, "Yeah, take a photo of that delicious 4-C barbeque to remember forever and to tell your friends. Send it to your friends and tweet it and put it on Facebook." I feel bad about taking food pictures but I have to do it, barbeque diary.

Today also marks the first Mexican food I've eaten which was also good. The dream is starting to come together. Barbeque and Mexican food, it's all happening. I want all the food, all of it.

Trip stats

Hours riding: 2:55.11

Day miles: 40.57

Total miles west: 443.77

Average speed: 13.8 mph

Max speed: 30.4 mph

Day 34, Tallahassee FL to Chipley FL

October 25

Today was a bit of a slog in the end, a bit sloggy. Maybe it was the not enough sleep, maybe it was too many beers last night. I'm not sure. What I think it is though is nutrition, I'm not eating enough. I only had a sandwich for dinner yesterday and it was fairly small. I definitely need more for than that, so many more calories. Also vitamins, need to remember my vitamins more.

The bicycle house guy made me some breakfast though, coffee and eggs, which was great. Good guy, apparently has some brain injury (coma?) And woke up and started this bike co-op. Following his dreams and really helping people out. Good guy.

After that though my legs just weren't pumping strongly. I slowly made it out to Quincy where apparently the porchfest was happening. I think it was just people playing music on their porches, not sure though. Anyway though, had a really average lunch at a small cafe and they were really slow. Average experience at the very best, contributed to the slog.

From there I just cycled it out, mile by mile. The scenery was okay, the hills were rolling and realized that the radio is terrible. I honestly can't imagine why there are radio stations anymore. I'm this close to swearing off radio entirely because this is getting out of hand. I swear that the station I was listening to was only playing about 8 songs. I decided that I can exercise my power as a consumer and go to a different station. The next station had the same 8 songs and maybe 3 more. Outrage. I get it Taylor Swift, your shaking it off. I just don't need to be constantly told that! And don't even get me started about being about the bass, don't get me started.

I'm in a hotel in Chipley tonight because I really just wanted to sit and do nothing. I've since polished off an entire pizza and could probably eat more. I'm going to see how much water I can drink also. I realize that I'm drinking a bunch of water but never need to urine. The water just goes into the system.

I also watched remember the titans, love that movie.

Oh and I crossed into central time so that's cool. So long east coast time, football starts too late in you. Central or bust!

Trip stats
Hours riding: 6:58.49
Day miles: 93.17
Total miles west: 403.19
Average speed: 13.3 mph
Max speed: 35.5 mph

Day 33, Fort White to Tallahassee FL

Pretty alright day overall, first full day on the new wheel and it rolled true. Had a slow start leaving the campsite but once I got rolling I was an absolute rocket ship. Just built for speed. Made great time.

I had lunch at a little restaurant in Madison and it was amazing. The brick house restaurant served me up a beautiful pulled pork sandwich with some great barbeque sauce. I had some fried green tomatoes on the side too, fantastic. Can I take a moment to talk about sweet tea also? It is so sweet and quenching, I'm crushing it often. Kind of wish I was drinking it right now...

I stayed in the bicycle house in Tallahassee which was an.... Experience. I didn't know what to expect but I knew it was free so that is nice. Turns out it is a funky bicycle co-op with some colorful people working there. I slept on a futon mattress behind a locker, oddly comfortable. I also went out for drinks to a place called the fermentation lounge. A hipster bar in the hipster part of town where I met some people from Cleveland and a guy who went to university in Newfoundland. It was fun to talk Newfoundland with someone, we had a laugh.

Overall a great day I guess, good wheel and good times.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 6:04.54
Day miles: 87.82
Total miles west: 310.02
Average speed: 14.4 mph
Max speed: 33 mph

Day 32, outside fort white to outside Madison FL

Well it was a good day, a fantastic day even. The best day? Let's not get crazy about it but it was really nice. Turns out it was cold in the night and I actually need to get in my sleeping bag instead of just lying on it. Cool air, finally a decent sleep camping. I think I went to sleep at 7:30? I had my book out and ready to read but it just didn't happen. Feel right asleep, no power. Slept in even, got a late start, no regrets. Camp oatmeal and coffee never tasted so good.

My regret of the day was that I misinterpreted my map and missed out on some barbeque for lunch. I could have eaten at Bob's butts barbeque! What am I doing down here if not trying to eat at Bob's butts? That's the point! It would have been amazing, it is officially the one that got away. I've had some good barbeque but I need more than this, I'm distraught over this one. It was right there! Bob's butts! Aaaaaa!

I'm also debating whether or not I'm going a bit crazy on the road here. I don't think so....but that's what a crazy person could say....

I ran into a couple older touring riders going the other way. Stopped for a chat and heard the legend of bicycle Bill! Apparently there is a homeless guy who just cycles the country. I might be able to catch up with him and apparently he has some great stories. He rides with some really wide panniers so I've heard, riding wide!

Going to Tallahassee today, home of the Seminoles. I get to stay there for free at a bike house so that is nice. Free stay!

Trip stats (lost data midway, if the computer is in the sun it resets) all estimates
Hours riding: 5:30
Day miles: 78.38
Total miles west: 222.18
Average speed: ~14 mph
Max speed: 33.4 mph

Day 31, Gainesville FL to outside Fort White FL

Well it finally happened, a good day, probably a very good day actually. I got up early and when got on my wiggly wobbly bike everything came back to me. All the bad feelings from yesterday's ride were there immediately. The bump with every rotation, the wheel twisted like a rung towel. Terrible. Awful. I almost ended the trip that day.

Went out for breakfast while I waited for the bike shop to open and had an ultimate skillet, delicious. Little did I know that pre-skillet Bradshaw, with his doubts and concerns was in for a surprise. My bike is fixed! New wheel among many other things, turns out it was in quite the shape. Repairs done included:
- realigning the front brakes
- brake tightening
- replacing the front shifting cable
- aligning the shifting head
- cleaning of the cassette
- new chain
- new wheel, checked and installed
- quick bike fitting which included dropping the seat and handlebars and changing my cleat position

After all of that it was only $200, the last bike shop told me the wheel alone would be $350. No thank you other bike shop, I'll go with these guys. It was all so good that I wrote a review on Google, my first review of anything online ever. Ever.

So after all that I think my woes are over with and I'm riding so fast right now. It was a short day of riding because that all took quite some time but I'm feeling very fast right now. Pulled into Fort White and could have either bought groceries for the campsite about ten miles away or some ribs to go from Charlie's. Got the ribs! Amazing cornbread and beans also but I was debating if the coleslaw was a bit funky. I debated right up until I finished the whole thing so I hope I don't get poisoned. Great ribs though, talked to the chef about them, good ribs. The funny thing too was that one of the other customers thought I looked like her brother so she bought me a beer. Turns out it's not only Brad Pitt lookalikes that get perks.

Now I'm in the campsite outside of town and it is nice enough. Hoping for some real speed tomorrow though, I want to open this baby up!

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:07.09
Day miles: 51.45
Total miles west: 143.80
Average speed: 12.4 mph
Max speed: 28.9 mph

Day 30, St Augustine FL to Gainesville FL

Well today really tested my patience. There was a point today where I said, "why does it have to be like this, just let me finish today!" My wheel broke another spoke and this time it is the last straw. New wheel, no exceptions.

It all started off so great, sun shining and not too hot out. Then it immediately went bad because turns out I had a flat. Didn't even get to get on the bike. So my early start turned into a late one and I'm stuck on the side of the road changing a tire. It's been awoke since I've done this so it took a little longer that expected. Job done though and I even bought a new tube right along my route. Things could be getting better.

Nope! Now the spoke breaks, forty miles into the day and that wheel looks like it could snap at any moment. I'm tightening spokes loosening others and it doesn't matter, the wheel is messed up. I have to keep riding because the nearest bike shop is in Gainesville so hourly I can limp in. It was terrible. My wheel is shaking everywhere and there is a noticeable bump on the flat spot. The whole rest of the day I'm just cursing my wheel, but also praying it will hold on.

Somehow it did and I'm staying with a nice PhD student here in town through warm showers. I got a free place to stay and a free dinner even but my thoughts are heavy on my wheel. I'm going to order one in to Tallahassee and hope that my current wheel can get fixed enough to get me there. Only about a hundred and fifty miles, hang on wheel!

Trip stats
Hours riding: 6:36.04
Day miles: 91.25
Total miles: 91.25
(I'm subtotaling, all the previous miles were going south so these are now going west)
Average speed: 13.8 mph
Max speed: 21.9 mph

Day 26-29, Hanna lake campground to st Augustine

It was an easy day and a good one cycling into st Augustine. I left late and had no trouble with the miles, there might have been a little bit of a tailwind even. Beautiful cycling also, a lot of it right along the coast with the water crashing. Some good surfing in those waters it looked like.

Pulled into at Augustine on Friday and checked into the hostel. Nice little place right in the heart of town. Had a chat with the guy at the desk about how difficult it is to enforce the parking in town. Apparently they have three spaces and are constantly towing cars. That night I went and grabbed a drink at the local microbrewery and met this guy sitting at the bar. We ended up talking cycling and ended up going to a cigar bar together. Overall, great night, I had a blast.

Sunday was a great day of hilarious football watching. I was at the bar and this couple came in and sat next to me, Detroit fans. We are chatting and having a laugh and the bartender is laughing along with us. Jokes were everywhere! We laughed about the sports cape, overusing the weird "aggressive" and drinking out of straws and gourmet Popsicles. Just funny. When the bartender's shift ended we all parted ways but not before hugging it out and taking a photo of ourselves. We became close very quickly. I went somewhere else for dinner and ended up meeting a Scottish gal watching the game who was also a great laugh. Overall, great people and a great night.

Also sat in the beach on Saturday, real nice beach.

Monday I'm having some barbeque in town watching the game. Mojo old city barbeque, pretty excited about it.

Trip stats

Day miles: 49.9 (39.5 getting to st Augustine, 10.4 going to beach and back)

Total miles: 1522.56

No other stats, data lost

Day 25, Yulee FL to Hanna Lake campground FL

October 16, 2014

What a day what a day, a fantastic day. It was supposed to be such an easy day that I felt absolutely no pressure. I only had about 30-40 miles to go to where I would get my tire fixed then I would lounge on the beach until the football game. Perfect plan....I kind of forgot I actually needed to cycle the miles though and even 30 miles still takes time.

I slept in, had a lazy lunch, was moving oh so slowly and just loving it. I discovered the elusive "Greenway" which is a different route from Maine to Florida. Gorgeous route though, could be for next year. Basically I was going slow and seeing the sights.

I saw the biggest spider I've ever seen that isn't a tarantula, the size of my palm with a web the size of a pillow. Freaky. Saw people fishing off the bridge as they are prone to do down here. Took a ferry across the river for a dollar, steal of a deal. A man told me about a "joke" he made at Wednesday church, it wasn't funny.

I checked into the most beautiful campsite I've ever seen at Hanna lake park. It is like being in the jungle but there are showers and fire pits. I also finally swam in the Atlantic ocean. It felt good and I want to say saltier than the pacific but my frame of reference probably isn't on point. Felt nice though, ocean, waves.

Technically I'm within the city limits of Jacksonville which has made for a confusing realization for me. I always thought Jacksonville was a dump town, the Detroit of Florida for example. Turns out it is kind of gorgeous with surfing and beaches and street markets and healthy people. I'm starting to think that maybe they like the jaguars after all also. Perhaps Jacksonville is an alright place at the end of the day, I've enjoyed myself here and that surprises me.

Tomorrow is another easy day, 40 miles to st Augustine for the weekend. I'm booked in to the hostel and am looking forward to it. Watch out Saturday market, I'm going to buy all your oranges.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:38.12
Day miles: 67.24
Total miles: 1472.66
Average speed: 11.9 mph
Max speed:25.6 mph

Day 24, Nahunta GA to Yulee FL

October 15, 2014

Crossed into a new state, my fifth one so far. Pretty exciting to cycle through five states and Florida looks like it will be a good one. I'm not going to go into the day to day of it because it was basically just a good day of cycling, no big moments. Today was about the barbeque though, big Q day.

It started at Jalen's in Folkston, Georgia. A hole in the wall type place that looked dirty and tasted great. Had a big rib platter that was amazing, big tender ribs and a BBQ sauce loaded with flavor. If you're using the Wendy's system, you'll notice that their sign is worth two points (pig with a hat).

As I cycled away from that I was thinking I should probably eat a salad tonight. A couple days of solid barbeque and unhealthy meals needed to be balanced out. Turns out that wasn't the case because when I pulled into Yulee Florida there was a barbeque place across the street from my hotel. Dial it in! Ordered the three meat platter with pulled pork, brisket and smoked turkey. The turkey was the surprise winner, usually I find turkey is dry at a barbeque place but this was misty and delicious. Pair it with three different sauces (smokey, sweet, mustard based) and you have a great dinner. Not only that, a pint of brew was only two dollars! Crazy!

Very glad to have had a double barbeque day, love barbeque.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:57.43
Day miles: 79.12
Total miles: 1405.42
Average speed: 13.28 mph
Max speed: 24.3 mph

Day 23, Reidsville GA to Nahunta GA

October 14, 2014

Everything was going according to plan. I started early, I was making great progress. There was a headwind but I was still going forward. The rain hadn't hit yet, I was ahead of it. I grabbed a drink at a convenience store and a guy just bluntly said, "you gonn' get wet today boy".

I got drenched.

I was four miles outside of Nahunta when it happened, the sky opened. I've never seen rain like this before. I've never had a shower like this before. It was the most powerful rain I've ever felt. The road was thick with water and within seconds I was soaked to the bone. Lightning was everywhere and the thunder sounded like a semi was passing me. Basically it was terrifying and amazing, it's my top storm.

Also a guy at the gas station called me boss today, it feels like I'm finally in the south. "Where you going boss?" Sweet.

I also had a weird run in with a dog on a bridge today. I cycled along and there was a dog walking down the road. It notices me cycling towards it and just bolts back until it stops at this bridge. It just sits there in the middle of the bridge barking at me. I don't know what to do, how do I get around this troll dog? I end up just inching forward until I'm close enough that I can just blast by. At one point I yelled "GEARS!" in the hope man's invention of gears can outrun the speedy dog. In the end I would like to thank my calves for powering me forward and avoiding rabbis.

Great day overall: troll dog, boss call, power storm.

Trip stats
Hours cycling: 6:28.32
Day miles: 84.24
Total miles: 1326.3 mph
Average speed: 13.0 mph (moderate headwind)
Max speed: 29.2 mph

Day 22, Statesboro GA to Reidsville GA

Well it was a poor day for miles but an overall pretty great day. Not a lot great happened I guess now that I think about it:

-The bakery i wanted to go to in the morning was out of business (i did good another one though)
-I mismanaged my water consumption so was riding for about 10 miles very thirsty.
-The local bike ship couldn't replace my wheel so I had to pay for another fix.
-Due to the wheel fiasco, I was only riding during the heat of the day

I did find a nice little corner store that made some mean fried chicken though. On top of that everyone was friendly and asking me where I was going to. One guy asked me confusingly, "Hey man, is there any money in what you're doing? 'Cause I see a bunch of guys like you come through here and I'm thinking, maybe they know something we don't". No kind stranger, there is no money in this.

I also have a nice campsite and made the most ghetto dinner possible. I bought my groceries at essentially a " Canadian tire " type store, somewhere you would buy a microwave oven and some bleach. Their produce section was just a couple of five pounds bags of onions. Bought some frozen chicken and biscuit mini sandwiches and a can of country gravy. Heat it up and put it in my mouth. It was something, I don't think it was incredible but maybe it is full of the energy I need. Just maybe.

Best part of the day though, maybe the best part of my life to this point, was hearing an old southern man talk about ribs. I was in the town gas station and this older man asked where I was going. Blah blah blah, I asked him about the campsite in town. He told me I won't have a problem finding a space but if I was here last week maybe I would because there was a cookout in town. Then, in the way only a true man from the south could say it, he said, "some cookout though, ribs that would fall off the bone". It sounded more like " ribs dat wood fawwl off da bowne", amazing. I hope to one day be that relaxed about ribs in my life.

A storm is brewing so I'm going to try and beat it out and get an early start. It will be bringing a headwind at me so getting the miles could be difficult but I think it is worth a try at least. If I get my hundred the next three days after that will be all too easy. Very excited about what will happen, could be riding through my first serious weather.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:10.34
Day miles: 48.58
Total miles: 1242.0
Average speed: 11.6 mph
Max speed: 30.9 mph

Day 21, Savannah GA to Statesboro GA

October 12, 2014

Aaarrrggghhh! Today was an incredibly frustrating day, lots went wrong. For starters I got off to a late start because bed was incredibly comfortable. I was okay with it, no regrets. I cycled out about ten miles before realizing that I forgot my lock back at the hostel! Aaaa! So annoying. I had to cycle back to the hostel then back out, the timing on my day was officially shot. I was hurrying though and thought I could make it to my goal anyway, after all, my legs were fresh. Before I knew it I had broken another spoke, my wheel is trashed. I was able to limp into Statesboro but this wheel is toast and is getting replaced tomorrow (hopefully). Tomorrow I'm going to go to the local bike shop and see if they can replace my wheel. I'm tired of all the problems and just need to start over, this wheel has broken three spokes, never been true, has a large flat spot and is costing more in repairs than it would be to replace it. So long wheel, I'm moving on with my life.

That said I don't know if this bike shop can make time for me so I might be stuck in Statesboro for a day or so, we'll see. It doesn't look like there is much here so I hope it goes quickly and I can get back on the road. Who knows though, maybe there is some stellar barbeque I can find.

Another crazy hot day also, scorching me. I've got some nice looking heat rash going on with my legs so that is new. Not sure how I'm going to fix this but I'm going to try only one coat of sunscreen on my legs tomorrow. Risky.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:30.21
Day miles: 75.81
Total miles: 1193.4
Average speed: 13.7 mph
Max speed: ? Error

Day 19/20 Savannah rest days

Well I love Savannah also, what a town. There are town squares everywhere and they are all just gorgeous. Old oaks covered in Spanish moss with park benches and statues to the different moments in history. Another town just great for walking around in and soaking up.

I drank some nice coffee, fell down historic stairs, ate a godfather sandwich at zumzis (a Savannah institution), checked out the river walk and whooped it up at some bars with some people I met on Friday night. Overall, Savannah has been good to me. The school here, Savannah college of at and design (SCAD), is an arts school so there are nice galleries and live music everywhere.

Now I need to get back to the road and crunching up the miles. It has been a pretty easy couple of days with these breaks so I'll need to cycle on a Sunday. Hopefully I can get through it quickly enough and not miss too much of the games. Fingers crossed.

BBQ
Bubs barbeque in Savannah
Got the pork and ribs plate and it was good. It was a bit of a nicer barbeque place because the other two in town were closed. One because of renovations and the other because of a catering event. Even though this was my third choice it was really good, maybe it should have been higher on the list. Great ribs, perfect even.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 1:36.35
Day miles: 11.09
Total miles: 1117.6
Average speed: 6.8 mph
Max speed: 14.3 mph

Day 18, just outside Walterboro SC to Savannah GA

Well it was a good day of riding, got off to an early start. Initially, my intention was to ride to Statesboro which was 120 miles out so I needed the early start. I left my ghetto A frame and cycled into town and grabbed breakfast at the waffle house. I could tell it was going to be hot again, must be in the south.

I was making good progress but kept seeing signs along my route saying Savannah was about 25-30 miles closer than my maps were predicting Statesboro was. I kept thinking it was weird but knew I was riding back roads. Last time I varied from the maps was myrtle beach and it was terrible. TERRIBLE. Never again I said. Never.  By lunch time I had altered my course to follow a Google maps route to take me straight to Savannah. I hoed myrtle beach wouldn't happen again.

What resulted was actually a pretty decent route, low traffic and an okay road. It was long and straight but that is about the worst I can say about it. Google did new right this time but I maintain my resolve of "never again". Overall though it guided my into Savannah along a nice route with low traffic and got me there in time to watch football.

Checked into the Savannah pensione (kind of like a hostel?) and have a nice room. So far I love Savannah, more than Charleston possibly. I think there is more crime here but there is also more town squares. Correlation? Probably not. Great town though, probably the most amazing.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 7:17.23
Day miles: 98.06
Total miles: 1106.5
Average speed: 13.4 mph
Max speed: 24.8 mph

Day 17, Charleston to just outside Walterboro

October 8, 2014

The one thing I'll never forget about today, is the heat. Oh my the heat. I've sweat in my day but I don't think I've ever reached this level of just pure sweat. It was roasting all day, from morning until night. BeforeI left Charleston I grabbed a bacon maple glazed donut from glazed. Glad I did because after that it was just heat. Heat heat heat.

I ended up having to buy a sweat band because of how hot it  was and it is both a blessing and a curse. Blessing because sweat and sunscreen stay out of my eyes now, curse because wringing it out is gross. Just nasty.

Ate some barbeque at browns BBQ in Monk's corner and it was good. Buffet style serve with some mustard pulled pork and white fish. The fish was tasty and the pork sweet and full of flavor. Beans and rice in the side hit the spot. Though this barbeque was good apparently there was a place in town called music man's barbeque that was closed. I'll bet that place is amazing.

Stayed at a really weird camp/farm/commune type thing. Stayed there for free though and had a little A frame to call my own. Very unusual, very ghetto (I discovered there was a frog with me while I was showering) and a million mosquitoes but overall okay. Made some chili for dinner and made my skin burn with deet. Not a bad evening.

Trip stats to bike campsite outside walterboro
Hours riding: 7:20.39
Day miles: 100.52
Total miles: 1008.5
Average speed: 13.6 mph
Max speed: 34.5 mph

Day 15/16 Charleston rest days

Charleston sweet Charleston, how do I love you? Let me count the ways:

- a town big enough to have all the amenities but small enough to have all the charm
- great food in great restaurants
- great bars with fantastic happy hours and beer selection, also great food
- potentially the most picturesque town ever, gorgeous. Walking around is just history and immaculate homes no matter where you go
- European bike atmosphere. People ride the same bikes they do in Denmark, very neat
- friendly people at every turn, from bartenders to just random folk on the street everyone is great
- cinnamon rolls at wild flour
- region specific bars (Boston bars, Chicago bars, etc)
- she crab soup, so crabby, so soupy
- history literally everywhere, houses here MUST be a minimum two hundred years old because it seems like everything is a historical house
- great vibe, everywhere you turn Charleston just feels right

Charleston I love you, I'll miss you every day from here on out.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 1:25.13
Day miles: 9.90
Total miles: 907.96
Average speed: 6.9 mph
Max speed: 13.2 mph

Day 14, Georgetown SC To Charleston SC

October 5, 2014

What a day, much better than yesterday. For starters it was cool in the morning, almost cold even. I went to a little cafe for breakfast in Georgetown and it was great. I ate some power food, southern omelette and some grits. The grits were good but I definitely googled how to eat grits... I didn't know if I should butter them, salt them, ketchup then or even give them the jam. I ended up with salt and pepper, felt classic.

After that it was a straight sixty five miles to Charleston and I just grinded it out. Kept a good pace and everything, powered by breakfast.

When I got to Charleston my hostel wouldn't check me in until 5 pm so I went to "fuel" nearby for food and football. Apparently, "fuel" was featured on diners, drive ins and dives and oh boy, rightfully so. Had some pork tacos that knocked off my socks. I need to buy new socks they were knocked off so hard. Incredibly delicious, amazingly so.

I'm going to spend the next two days here resting up and taking in the town. I might eat everything, hopefully so. Hopefully I enjoy this town, it looks like a neat place.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:32.30
Day miles: 67.24
Total miles: 898.05
Average speed: 14.8 mph
Max speed: 30.7 mph

Day 13, Little River SC to Georgetown SC

October 4, 2014

Today was a tough go of it, no question about it. It was another hot day and there was a headwind the entire day also, but there was something that was much much worse. There is a Harley Davidson rally in Myrtle Beach which I cycled through and it was brutal. Literally a million loud as all get out bikes just blasting at me down the highway. I am not the biggest fan of the highway, but these bikes were just pelting me with noise the whole time, awful. So awful. I had to take moments away from it just so I could collect myself. I officially hate Harley's now, I'm not cycling down the highway just yelling into everyone else's face, so why are they? So frustrating.

I did eat some lovely soul food at 'Aunnys' in Georgetown SC which made everything all better. Probably some of the best fried chicken, fried shrimp, cornbread and collards I've ever had. When i told the server I'd only had collards from up north side said, "honey, if you ain't had collards from the south you ain't had collards". Turns out I ain't had collards until now. So good.

Georgetown South Carolina is a weird place though, they have a rice museum. Most of their history involves rice apparently.... But now they have no rice. Such a weird thing to have as history. Rice.

Trip stats
Time riding: 4:58.36
Day miles: 62.80
Total miles: 830.80
Average speed: 12.6 mph
Max speed: 25.6 mph

Day 12, Wilmington NC to Little River SC

Today was a day of great expectations and little delivery. The wind was in my face, it was blisteringly hot and there was just fun stops along the way. I got going at a reasonable hour but just never had any speed behind my pedals. For some or another big miles weren't happening. I might have to reconsider my mileage plan because getting to a hundred miles is so dependent on an early start and not stopping for much. Yesterday I stopped for coffee, shade, lunch, sunscreen and a ferry. Gotta enjoy it so I'm not going to be married to the long miles anymore, 80 miles is more likely the pace going forward.

I passed through Carolina Beach and it is a town of champions if I've ever seen one. Glory runs through the veins of its citizens and they aren't humble about it. When you walk into their town you know that you are amidst greatness.... Well, as great as the 2009 Schweppes great seafood chowder champion can be.

Also saw an alligator today, he lives in a golf course. Retired alligator.

I did cross into south Carolina today also which is very exciting. That makes two states that I've passed through now, I'm making progress even if it isn't as fast as I'd like. Hopefully this is the barbeque state because I was surprised by how much seafood there is in north Carolina.

BBQ: Southport smokehouse in Southport North Carolina.

Just ordered a brisket on a bun because I wasn't too hungry but boy did it deliver. Maybe the most tender brisket I have ever had. I drenched it with their secret "tangy" barbeque sauce and I was dreaming. Smokey, moist, full of flavor, delicious. Very pleased.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:41.59
Day miles: 75.48
Total miles: 767.99
Average speed: 13.1 mph
Max speed: 27.1 mph