Day 19/20 Savannah rest days

Well I love Savannah also, what a town. There are town squares everywhere and they are all just gorgeous. Old oaks covered in Spanish moss with park benches and statues to the different moments in history. Another town just great for walking around in and soaking up.

I drank some nice coffee, fell down historic stairs, ate a godfather sandwich at zumzis (a Savannah institution), checked out the river walk and whooped it up at some bars with some people I met on Friday night. Overall, Savannah has been good to me. The school here, Savannah college of at and design (SCAD), is an arts school so there are nice galleries and live music everywhere.

Now I need to get back to the road and crunching up the miles. It has been a pretty easy couple of days with these breaks so I'll need to cycle on a Sunday. Hopefully I can get through it quickly enough and not miss too much of the games. Fingers crossed.

BBQ
Bubs barbeque in Savannah
Got the pork and ribs plate and it was good. It was a bit of a nicer barbeque place because the other two in town were closed. One because of renovations and the other because of a catering event. Even though this was my third choice it was really good, maybe it should have been higher on the list. Great ribs, perfect even.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 1:36.35
Day miles: 11.09
Total miles: 1117.6
Average speed: 6.8 mph
Max speed: 14.3 mph

Day 18, just outside Walterboro SC to Savannah GA

Well it was a good day of riding, got off to an early start. Initially, my intention was to ride to Statesboro which was 120 miles out so I needed the early start. I left my ghetto A frame and cycled into town and grabbed breakfast at the waffle house. I could tell it was going to be hot again, must be in the south.

I was making good progress but kept seeing signs along my route saying Savannah was about 25-30 miles closer than my maps were predicting Statesboro was. I kept thinking it was weird but knew I was riding back roads. Last time I varied from the maps was myrtle beach and it was terrible. TERRIBLE. Never again I said. Never.  By lunch time I had altered my course to follow a Google maps route to take me straight to Savannah. I hoed myrtle beach wouldn't happen again.

What resulted was actually a pretty decent route, low traffic and an okay road. It was long and straight but that is about the worst I can say about it. Google did new right this time but I maintain my resolve of "never again". Overall though it guided my into Savannah along a nice route with low traffic and got me there in time to watch football.

Checked into the Savannah pensione (kind of like a hostel?) and have a nice room. So far I love Savannah, more than Charleston possibly. I think there is more crime here but there is also more town squares. Correlation? Probably not. Great town though, probably the most amazing.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 7:17.23
Day miles: 98.06
Total miles: 1106.5
Average speed: 13.4 mph
Max speed: 24.8 mph

Day 17, Charleston to just outside Walterboro

October 8, 2014

The one thing I'll never forget about today, is the heat. Oh my the heat. I've sweat in my day but I don't think I've ever reached this level of just pure sweat. It was roasting all day, from morning until night. BeforeI left Charleston I grabbed a bacon maple glazed donut from glazed. Glad I did because after that it was just heat. Heat heat heat.

I ended up having to buy a sweat band because of how hot it  was and it is both a blessing and a curse. Blessing because sweat and sunscreen stay out of my eyes now, curse because wringing it out is gross. Just nasty.

Ate some barbeque at browns BBQ in Monk's corner and it was good. Buffet style serve with some mustard pulled pork and white fish. The fish was tasty and the pork sweet and full of flavor. Beans and rice in the side hit the spot. Though this barbeque was good apparently there was a place in town called music man's barbeque that was closed. I'll bet that place is amazing.

Stayed at a really weird camp/farm/commune type thing. Stayed there for free though and had a little A frame to call my own. Very unusual, very ghetto (I discovered there was a frog with me while I was showering) and a million mosquitoes but overall okay. Made some chili for dinner and made my skin burn with deet. Not a bad evening.

Trip stats to bike campsite outside walterboro
Hours riding: 7:20.39
Day miles: 100.52
Total miles: 1008.5
Average speed: 13.6 mph
Max speed: 34.5 mph

Day 15/16 Charleston rest days

Charleston sweet Charleston, how do I love you? Let me count the ways:

- a town big enough to have all the amenities but small enough to have all the charm
- great food in great restaurants
- great bars with fantastic happy hours and beer selection, also great food
- potentially the most picturesque town ever, gorgeous. Walking around is just history and immaculate homes no matter where you go
- European bike atmosphere. People ride the same bikes they do in Denmark, very neat
- friendly people at every turn, from bartenders to just random folk on the street everyone is great
- cinnamon rolls at wild flour
- region specific bars (Boston bars, Chicago bars, etc)
- she crab soup, so crabby, so soupy
- history literally everywhere, houses here MUST be a minimum two hundred years old because it seems like everything is a historical house
- great vibe, everywhere you turn Charleston just feels right

Charleston I love you, I'll miss you every day from here on out.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 1:25.13
Day miles: 9.90
Total miles: 907.96
Average speed: 6.9 mph
Max speed: 13.2 mph

Day 14, Georgetown SC To Charleston SC

October 5, 2014

What a day, much better than yesterday. For starters it was cool in the morning, almost cold even. I went to a little cafe for breakfast in Georgetown and it was great. I ate some power food, southern omelette and some grits. The grits were good but I definitely googled how to eat grits... I didn't know if I should butter them, salt them, ketchup then or even give them the jam. I ended up with salt and pepper, felt classic.

After that it was a straight sixty five miles to Charleston and I just grinded it out. Kept a good pace and everything, powered by breakfast.

When I got to Charleston my hostel wouldn't check me in until 5 pm so I went to "fuel" nearby for food and football. Apparently, "fuel" was featured on diners, drive ins and dives and oh boy, rightfully so. Had some pork tacos that knocked off my socks. I need to buy new socks they were knocked off so hard. Incredibly delicious, amazingly so.

I'm going to spend the next two days here resting up and taking in the town. I might eat everything, hopefully so. Hopefully I enjoy this town, it looks like a neat place.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 4:32.30
Day miles: 67.24
Total miles: 898.05
Average speed: 14.8 mph
Max speed: 30.7 mph

Day 13, Little River SC to Georgetown SC

October 4, 2014

Today was a tough go of it, no question about it. It was another hot day and there was a headwind the entire day also, but there was something that was much much worse. There is a Harley Davidson rally in Myrtle Beach which I cycled through and it was brutal. Literally a million loud as all get out bikes just blasting at me down the highway. I am not the biggest fan of the highway, but these bikes were just pelting me with noise the whole time, awful. So awful. I had to take moments away from it just so I could collect myself. I officially hate Harley's now, I'm not cycling down the highway just yelling into everyone else's face, so why are they? So frustrating.

I did eat some lovely soul food at 'Aunnys' in Georgetown SC which made everything all better. Probably some of the best fried chicken, fried shrimp, cornbread and collards I've ever had. When i told the server I'd only had collards from up north side said, "honey, if you ain't had collards from the south you ain't had collards". Turns out I ain't had collards until now. So good.

Georgetown South Carolina is a weird place though, they have a rice museum. Most of their history involves rice apparently.... But now they have no rice. Such a weird thing to have as history. Rice.

Trip stats
Time riding: 4:58.36
Day miles: 62.80
Total miles: 830.80
Average speed: 12.6 mph
Max speed: 25.6 mph

Day 12, Wilmington NC to Little River SC

Today was a day of great expectations and little delivery. The wind was in my face, it was blisteringly hot and there was just fun stops along the way. I got going at a reasonable hour but just never had any speed behind my pedals. For some or another big miles weren't happening. I might have to reconsider my mileage plan because getting to a hundred miles is so dependent on an early start and not stopping for much. Yesterday I stopped for coffee, shade, lunch, sunscreen and a ferry. Gotta enjoy it so I'm not going to be married to the long miles anymore, 80 miles is more likely the pace going forward.

I passed through Carolina Beach and it is a town of champions if I've ever seen one. Glory runs through the veins of its citizens and they aren't humble about it. When you walk into their town you know that you are amidst greatness.... Well, as great as the 2009 Schweppes great seafood chowder champion can be.

Also saw an alligator today, he lives in a golf course. Retired alligator.

I did cross into south Carolina today also which is very exciting. That makes two states that I've passed through now, I'm making progress even if it isn't as fast as I'd like. Hopefully this is the barbeque state because I was surprised by how much seafood there is in north Carolina.

BBQ: Southport smokehouse in Southport North Carolina.

Just ordered a brisket on a bun because I wasn't too hungry but boy did it deliver. Maybe the most tender brisket I have ever had. I drenched it with their secret "tangy" barbeque sauce and I was dreaming. Smokey, moist, full of flavor, delicious. Very pleased.

Trip stats
Hours riding: 5:41.59
Day miles: 75.48
Total miles: 767.99
Average speed: 13.1 mph
Max speed: 27.1 mph